Cord Lace vs Guipure Lace vs Dry Lace: Same Thing?

Guipure cord lace in royal purple and gold, flat with scalloped border

Short answer: yes. In the West African market, cord lace, guipure lace and dry lace are names for the same family of lace: heavy embroidery without a net ground, with the motifs outlined by a raised cord.

What makes cord lace different

Most lace is embroidered onto a ground cloth that stays in the finished fabric — cotton voile, organza or net. Guipure is embroidered onto a carrier that is dissolved afterwards. What remains is only the embroidery: motifs joined by embroidered bars, each outline thickened with a satin cord. That is why cord lace is:

  • Heavy and sculptural — it holds its shape and stands away from the body.
  • Open — you see skin or lining between the motifs, so it is usually lined.
  • “Dry” — it has no soft ground, which is where the Lagos market name dry lace comes from.

Cord lace vs Swiss voile vs net lace

Swiss voile keeps its cotton ground: light, matte, cool — the daytime and men’s lace. Net or tulle lace keeps a fine mesh ground, often with beads or glitter — the evening lace. Cord lace has no ground at all — the statement lace.

How to judge cord lace quality

  1. Turn it over. Real embroidery has a back side; you can see and feel the stitches.
  2. Pull gently. The bars between motifs should hold, not stretch open.
  3. Look at the cord. It should be even and tight around every motif.
  4. Ask where it was embroidered and for the design number.

Every OLORI cord lace is embroidered on schiffli frames in Lustenau, Austria, and every parcel carries a certificate stamped by the mill. Shop guipure and cord lace.

The cloth itself.

See all sixteen

IRIN — Wheel Lattice

IRIN — Wheel Lattice

ÌRÀWỌ̀ — Star Flowers

ÌRÀWỌ̀ — Star Flowers

WÚRÀ — Leaf Border

WÚRÀ — Leaf Border

FÚNFÚN — Petal Eyelet

FÚNFÚN — Petal Eyelet

The Circle

First off the frame.

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