The four big families of African lace differ in one thing above all: what the embroidery sits on. That decides the weight, the drape, how warm it is and where it belongs.
| Cord lace (guipure) | Swiss voile | Organza lace | Tulle / net lace | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ground | none | cotton voile | sheer organza | fine mesh |
| Weight | heavy | light | very light | light |
| Look | sculptural, matte or metallic | matte, crisp | sheer, shiny | sheer, sparkle |
| Heat | warm, needs lining | coolest | cool | cool, needs lining |
| Best for | celebrant, front row, evening | church, naming, daytime, men | evening, capes, overskirts | evening, bride, celebrant |
For a wedding or owambe
The celebrant and close family often wear cord lace or beaded tulle lace; guests in aso ebi often wear the same dessin. For a long outdoor afternoon in heat, Swiss voile is the comfortable choice.
For church, naming ceremonies and daytime
Swiss voile: matte, breathable, easy to tailor, and the classic cloth for men’s kaftans and agbada.
For evening
Organza lace floats and catches the light; tulle lace sparkles. Both are usually worn over a lining.
Organza or voile? Why not both
Our ẸBÍ dessin runs the same embroidery on organza and on Swiss voile, so women can wear shine and men comfort — and the family still matches. See the aso ebi family set.